The Testpiece Podcast

Good Temps #18 — Climbing In Baseball Stadiums, Ondra On Exodia V18, and The Flatanger Double Clutch

This week’s episode ran a bit shorter than usual. To make it up to you, we’re including the Patreon bonus section for free! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#199 Elias Iagnemma — The World's Hardest Boulder, Proposing A New Grade, and What Comes After Sending V18?

Last November, after four years of projecting, Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia, and proposed the world’s first ever V18/9A+. The boulder has remained somewhat mysterious since then, with limited footage of it and little information on who has been trying it. Today, in Elias’s first English podcast appearance, he answers all the questions about Exodia that the climbing world has been asking for the past year. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Sending every MoonBoard benchmark - Elias’s approach to learning new movements and refining beta - The importance of the name, “Exodia” Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Board Talk #16 with Matt Fultz — The Benchmarking Process, The Brand New Core Board, and The “Harder” Version Of Hypnotized Minds

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. SHOW NOTES Get Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/ *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger climber - Does climbing skill transfer to Beyblade? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#198 Austin Hoyt — Maintaining Progression At Your Limit, The Northeast’s V18, and What Separates The Younger Generation Of Climbers

Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest. In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress - How to set easy and complex boulders Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Good Temps #17 — The Fastest 9b+ Send Ever, The Evolution Of Rocklands, and Is It Okay To Watch A Stranger’s Session?

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The world’s best easy and moderate boulders Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System

Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups. Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Is crimping bolt holds and behind volumes cheating? - How important is getting a route setting certification Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Board Talk #15 with Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora — Behind The Scenes Of Board Lords 10, 3 Months On The 16x12 TB2, and Japanese Board Lords

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How you can attend Board Lords - Was there a 3rd climb prepared for Bord Lords 10? - Michael’s favorite Tool song - Quinn’s favorite LCD soundsystem song SHOW NOTES: Board Lords 10 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDRMWvjTD0 TensionBoardClub Vol. 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6f4QFSdhsI Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#196 James Pearson — Climbing For Yourself, Expanding Your Skillset, and Why You Should Start Trad Climbing

James Pearson climbs only the best lines. With a background in sketchy UK trad routes, a natural ability to send hard boulders, and an eye for aesthetics, it’s no wonder he’s managed to build a ticklist of some of the world’s most coveted ascents. Today, he joins Josh to try to convince us to take up trad climbing and break down his long career as a professional climber. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - James’s experience with Exodia V18 - Thoughts on Ondra’s flash of Lexicon E11 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Good Temps #16 — Austin Sends Another V16, Ondra’s ‘No Fall Day,’ and Should You Stack Pads?

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Why Carlo sands everyday - The benefits of training comp moves for outdoor climbers Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#195 Si Moore — Building Better Sessions, How To Send Boulders, and Why You Shouldn’t Fall In Your Training

Si Moore has been coaching climbing since before it was a real job. Today, he coaches some of the world’s best climbers, and is the founder of Vertical Ascents, a company built on the foundation of movement science. Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss the philosophy that informs his coaching, and some of the most important lessons he teaches his clients. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to send your project - The benefits of training beyond your limit - Is getting a coach the right move for you? - What is the most fun type of climbing? SHOW NOTES: Vertical Ascents - https://www.verticalascents.com West Coast Gimps - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbmOjZFsxG8 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Board Talk #14 with Adam Shahar — Crushing Slopers, Bigger Boards, and Adam’s 9A Double Clutch

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Adam Shahar, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The secret to climbing on slopers Adam’s training routine Every board’s hardest climb Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript

#194 Chris Deuto — No Fall Situations, Type 2 Fun, and Climbing The Southeast Ridge Of Cerro Torre

Chris Deuto climbs everything. He’s bouldered V14, he’s sent hard 5.14s, he’s the youngest person to climb the Yosemite triple crown, and, most impressively, last year he climbed Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge. In this episode he breaks down the factors that make Cerro Torre such a difficult ascent, how he approaches the substantial danger in his climbing, and his career in climbing journalism. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How do pitches get graded on big alpine ascents? - Chris’s scariest climbing moments from the past year Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Good Temps #15 — Noah Wheeler’s Rampage, Janja’s 50th Gold Medal, and Why Sending Is The Most Important Part Of Climbing

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Should you use dog paw medicine? - Predictions for the second half of the year SHOW NOTES: Annie Sanders flashes the slab boulder at the Innsbruck World Cup finals - https://www.youtube.com/shorts/E1dF6U-frAg Janja Garnbret's youtube channel - https://www.youtube.com/@Janja.Garnbret Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#193 Hazel Findlay — How To Try Hard, Flow Vs. Clutch, and The Psychology Of Execution

You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing - How Hazel balances hard projecting with being a parent SHOW NOTES: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X0W4DT-h9I Strong Mind - https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/webinar Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript

Board Talk #13 with Brian Squire — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, How To Keep Your Feet On, and Why V13 Should Be The Hardest Board Grade

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The hardest move ever on the TB2 Is a Houdini Match allowed on a no matching boulder? Spray or Mirror for the TB2? Favorite angle to climb on for Boards? Favorite holds on the TB2? Boulders that are harder than “How Soon Is Now?” V15 SHOW NOTES: Brian’s board account - https://www.instagram.com/itsybitsylittlecrimpers/ The TB2’s hardest move - BRANEWORLD @50 https://tensionboardapp2.com/climbs/9DA5ADDC70E14F86B96D6EB5343BE676 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#192 Matt Samet — 39 Years Of Climbing, The Great Debate, and The Lesser Known History Of Our Sport

Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?). In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The most common climbing accidents, and how to prevent them - The best piece in the American Climbing Journal Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Good Temps #14 with Allison Vest — Janja Sends Bibliographie 5.15c, Katie Lamb FA’s V15, and Should Pro Climbers Have To Publicize Their Sends?

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - What makes Sorato Anraku so strong? - Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best board climber? - Will we see more climbers livestream their sends? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

#191 Lincoln Knowles — Soloing Choss, What Happens When Your Bubble Bursts, and The Mentality Of A Free Soloist

You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist. Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as 5.12b/c, and he’s taken some of the world’s best climbers with him. Today, he joins Josh to talk about the mental prep that goes into his daring ascents, and his Stonemasters style rockstar life. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Lincoln’s scariest moments - The best pro climbers to solo with Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript

Board Talk #12 — The TB2 Expansion, The World’s Best Board Climber, and The Case For Full Crimping with Ben Burkhalter and Michael Rosato

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Ben Burkhalter, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): What happened to The Red Board? Why are spray walls disappearing? The rules of board climbing SHOW NOTES: “How Soon Is Now” V15 board climb from Brian squire (@ittsybitsycrimpers): https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXPvQxXEu9S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Board Lords 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJJkEcgmbpg&list=PLkr0-jfrZvVmGVkSoE_f-L_2XYGxnI4kz&index=9 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

• Transcript
• Chapters

Noah Wheeler & Michael Rosato — Finland 2025 Trip Report, Burden Of Dreams and The Sisu Project

This episode originally aired as a Patreon exclusive on December 6, 2025. After a battle with conditions, injuries, and a heartbreaking dab, Noah Wheeler just sent Burden Of Dreams V17/9A. This week we revisit his first trip to Finland with Hamish McArthur, and Tension Climbing's Michael Rosato, where they checked out Burden, and the infamous Sisu Project. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE