GoldDust

Jeans and T-Shirt Luxury: Bear Brooksbank on Making Big Rings in East London

Bear Brooksbank was making big, weighty rings long before chunky was everywhere. Fourteen years on, the trend has caught up with her, and she has no intention of changing course when it moves on. Bear learnt the trade as assistant to Mayfair antique dealer Humphrey Butler, carrying pieces up and down workshop staircases and falling for the craftsmanship long before she knew the technical language. She launched her own brand with no formal design training, building it on instinct, antique influences and plenty of unglamorous repair work. She now runs her studio and showroom from the Victorian Sunbury Workshops at Arnold Circus in East London. In this conversation, we talk about designing by instinct rather than trend, why she sells antique and vintage pieces alongside her own work, her firm stance on synthetic diamonds, what PR really does for a jewellery brand, and why believing in her signature designs has grown the business more than anything else. Topics include: learning the trade with antique jewellery dealer Humphrey Butler launching a jewellery brand with no formal design training the thread that runs from her early stone-led designs to her work today building a business on repairs, resizing and long-term client relationships why a physical studio matters, even away from Hatton Garden and Mayfair designing “jeans and t-shirt luxury” for everyday wear trusting instinct over trend selling antique and vintage jewellery alongside bespoke why she won’t use synthetic diamonds in pieces meant to be handed down what PR does, and doesn’t do, for an independent jewellery brand saying no to clients whose references belong to someone else’s brand signature designs, sample sets and taking the brand to America A candid conversation about instinct, heritage and patience, and why the jewellery you love making is the jewellery that lasts. Episode Notes Guest: Bear Brooksbank Website: https://www.bearbrooksbank.com Instagram: Bear Brooksbank on Instagram GoldDust Collective GoldDust Collective is the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers who want to build distinctive, coveted brands. Through expert masterclasses, business resources and an inspiring community of like-minded jewellers, GoldDust helps creatives grow sustainable businesses without compromising their vision. https://www.katebaxterstudio.com The Cut London Discover contemporary engagement rings and bespoke jewellery from some of the UK’s most talented independent designers. https://www.thecutlondon.com Follow Kate Baxter: Instagram: @golddust_by_kate_baxter Instagram: @thecutlondon If you enjoyed this episode, please follow, rate and review the GoldDust Podcast. It helps more independent jewellers discover these conversations and supports the future of the podcast. Thank you for listening.

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No E-Commerce, No Showroom: How to Build a Cult Jewellery Brand with Hattie Rickards

Building a cult jewellery brand is difficult enough. Building one without e-commerce, without a showroom, and without a traditional retail model is something else entirely. Hattie Rickards has done exactly that. Over the past 15 years, Hattie has built a highly recognised luxury jewellery brand almost entirely through bespoke commissions, with more than 2,000 individual pieces created for private clients around the world. Rather than building the business around volume, wholesale or a conventional online shop, she has focused on developing a distinctive design signature, creating an exceptional one-to-one experience and building trust through reputation, word of mouth and the quality of the work itself. In this conversation, we explore why Hattie chose to move away from wholesale and focus on bespoke, how you build a recognisable brand when every piece is unique, and why investing in physical jewellery collections has been more valuable to her business than investing heavily in PR and marketing. Topics include: • why Hattie chose to move away from wholesale and focus entirely on bespoke • building a successful jewellery business without e-commerce or a showroom • developing a distinctive design signature when every piece is unique • why staying in her own “design bubble” has helped Hattie develop her aesthetic • building trust and reputation when clients are making a high-value bespoke purchase • why the bespoke experience is as important as the finished piece • how to communicate a starting price and confidently stand behind your value • using Instagram as a shop window rather than a traditional e-commerce channel • why investing in physical collections became one of the most valuable investments in the business • growing organically through referrals, reputation and long-term client relationships • knowing when to push your design work towards a more couture level • why Hattie chose not to create an entry-level product simply to reach a wider market A candid conversation about building a jewellery business on design, trust and an exceptional bespoke experience, and why staying true to your own aesthetic can ultimately become your greatest business asset. Episode Notes Guest: Hattie Rickards Website: https://www.hattierickards.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hattierickards/ GoldDust Collective GoldDust Collective is the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers who want to build distinctive, coveted brands. Through expert masterclasses, business resources and an inspiring community of like-minded jewellers, GoldDust helps creatives grow sustainable businesses without compromising their vision. https://www.katebaxterstudio.com The Cut London Discover contemporary engagement rings and bespoke jewellery from some of the UK's most talented independent designers. https://www.thecutlondon.com Follow Kate Baxter: Instagram: @golddust_by_kate_baxter Instagram: @thecutlondon If you enjoyed this episode, please follow, rate and review the GoldDust Podcast. It helps more independent jewellers discover these conversations and supports the future of the podcast. Thank you for listening.

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Growing a Demi-Fine Jewellery Brand Without Paid Advertising with Laura Vann

Building a successful demi-fine jewellery brand is one of the hardest challenges in the jewellery industry. Margins are tight, competition is fierce, and success depends on selling significant volume without losing the creativity and identity that made your brand special in the first place. Laura Vann has done exactly that. Over the past decade, Laura has built one of Britain's most successful independent demi-fine jewellery brands, with stockists including Fortnum & Mason, Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. Rather than competing through ever-increasing advertising budgets, she has grown her business by thinking differently: creating jewellery that's difficult to copy, presenting every collection in a fresh contemporary context, and replacing paid advertising with collaborations, events and genuine relationships that continue to fuel the brand today. In this conversation, we explore how Laura transformed a family wholesale jewellery business into a distinctive consumer brand, why she believes signature design is your greatest competitive advantage, and how she successfully expanded into bespoke engagement rings and fine jewellery without losing the identity that made her brand so recognisable. Topics include: • why building a profitable demi-fine jewellery brand is so challenging • creating jewellery that's difficult to copy • developing a distinctive signature style that customers recognise instantly • why Laura turned her back on Meta and Google advertising • replacing paid ads with events, collaborations and meaningful relationships • growing from wholesale into luxury retailers including Fortnum & Mason, Liberty and Selfridges • expanding from demi-fine into bespoke engagement rings and fine jewellery • why the best opportunities come from putting yourself in the right rooms A relaxed, candid conversation about building a jewellery brand for the long term, proving that thoughtful design, commercial thinking and genuine relationships can be far more powerful than following the traditional marketing playbook. Episode Notes Guest: Laura Vann Website: https://www.lauravann.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lauravannjewellery/ GoldDust Collective GoldDust Collective is the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers who want to build stronger, more profitable brands. Through expert masterclasses, business resources and an inspiring community of like-minded jewellers, GoldDust helps creatives grow sustainable businesses without compromising their vision. https://www.katebaxterstudio.com The Cut London Discover contemporary engagement rings and bespoke jewellery from some of the UK's most talented independent designers. https://www.thecutlondon.com Follow Kate Baxter: Instagram: @golddust_by_kate_baxter Instagram: @thecutlondon If you enjoyed this episode, please follow, rate and review the GoldDust Podcast. It helps more independent jewellers discover these conversations and supports the future of the podcast. Thank you for listening.

From Viral TikToks to a Thriving Jewellery Business: with Susannah King

Susannah King has built one of the UK's most recognisable independent jewellery brands by doing almost everything differently. Without a traditional marketing plan, she grew a global audience through TikTok by sharing her creative process, personality and the realities of running a jewellery business. In this conversation, we explore the unexpected path behind her success, from an unconventional childhood and making silver spoons at university to building a brand known for its bold, colourful and highly personal designs that defy the expected norms of traditional fine jewellery, whilst remaining wildly desirable. Susannah shares how viral content transformed her business, why authenticity has become her greatest marketing tool, and how trusting her instincts has helped her stand out in an increasingly crowded industry.We also discuss the importance of developing a recognisable creative voice, embracing opportunities as they come, and why building a successful jewellery business doesn't have to mean following the traditional route. Topics include: • growing an international jewellery business almost entirely through TikTok • turning millions of video views into paying customers and bespoke commissions • why authenticity consistently outperforms polished marketing • finding your signature style without copying what's already selling • how childhood creativity shaped an unconventional career in jewellery • the realities of building a successful brand without following the traditional jewellery industry path • what independent jewellers can learn about content creation without becoming "content creators" An inspiring conversation about creativity, originality and building a jewellery business by staying true to yourself. Episode Notes Guest: Susannah King Website: www.susannah-king-london.com Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/ GoldDust Collective https://www.katebaxterstudio.com The Cut London https://www.thecutlondon.com Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter and @thecutlondon Explore more conversations about the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing to the podcast. Thank you for listening!

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From Shared Bench to Prime Retail in London - why Commerciality is Key to Growth with Rachel Boston

Rachel Boston has become one of the most sought-after engagement ring designers in London by striking a balance that many jewellers aim for but few achieve: work that feels timeless and familiar, yet still distinctive and recognisably her own. In this conversation, we explore how Rachel grew her business organically (with no investment!) over more than a decade, evolving from early designer-maker beginnings and trade shows to a refined East London showroom with a strong waiting list for bespoke commissions. We discuss the turning points that shaped her brand, including the decision to focus on bridal, the importance of carrying a clear signature style through every collection, and the realities of opening and sustaining a physical retail space in one of the most competitive luxury markets in the world. Topics include: • defining a recognisable design handwriting that evolves over time • building a bridal and bespoke business without outside investment • the role of physical retail in a digital-first world • how customer expectations around engagement rings have changed • balancing creative development with commercial consistency • navigating rising material costs and long-term brand growth A thoughtful conversation about ambition, risk-taking, and the long-term value of developing a clear point of view in a crowded market. Episode Notes Guest: Rachel Boston Website: https://www.rachelboston.co.uk Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rachelbostonjewellery/ GoldDust Collective https://www.katebaxterstudio.com The Cut London https://www.thecutlondon.com Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter and @thecutlondon Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

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The Fine Jewellery Pioneer Who Built a Career on Imperfection: with Polly Wales

In this episode of the GoldDust Podcast, I’m joined by Polly Wales, a true pioneer in contemporary fine jewellery who built her career by challenging many of the traditional rules of the craft. Known for her cast-in-place gemstone technique, Polly creates pieces that are intentionally organic, unpredictable, and completely unique. We talk about how this unconventional approach first developed, why she never felt entirely at home within the traditional fine jewellery world, and how embracing imperfection became the foundation of her work. We also discuss the pivotal moment when Polly took the huge step of moving her entire business from the countryside of the UK to Los Angeles, a decision that transformed the trajectory of her brand and helped her find an audience that truly connected with her work. For independent jewellers, this conversation offers an honest look at creative risk, originality, and what can happen when you build a jewellery career by doing things differently. Episode Notes Guest: Polly Wales Website: www.pollywales.com Instagram: @pollywales Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com Follow Kate Baxter at @golddust_by_kate_baxter and @thecutlondon Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

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The Realities of Building a Founder-led Jewellery Brand, with Hannah Martin

What really happens when you're the name behind the brand? Jewellery designer Hannah Martin joins the GoldDust Podcast to discuss the realities of building a career in fine jewellery with her bold, sexy, sculptural designs. We talk about how she grew her one-woman brand from Central St Martin's graduate to a 3 story East London showroom over the last 20 years. From the pressures of being the name behind the brand, trying stuff that doesn't work, and designing jewellery that isn't for everyone, to the decisions she made that changed everything. Hannah also shares insights on creative conviction, the power of building a community - if you haven't been to one of her legendary parties you need to - and what it really takes to grow a jewellery business that stands the test of time. With clients ranging from Rhianna to Zaha Hadid, Hannah Martin is one of the rare fine jewellery success stories where the work remains truly unique, undiluted, and uncompromised. Episode Notes 01:21 Hannah's early influences and education at Central Saint Martins 02:18 Her experience at Cartier and starting her own brand 02:47 The evolution of her design philosophy and style 07:32 The importance of authenticity in her work 12:10 Launching her first collection and materials used 17:15 Her unique creative process and character-driven collections 23:02 Balancing artistic integrity with commercial success 26:36 Her signature style and recognisability 30:06 Brand growth, studio space, and community building 37:37 Setting trends and her influence on jewellery design 44:16 The significance of her creative space and studio environment 49:50 Business growth, diversification, and her teaching roles 52:29 Bespoke work, bridal, and engagement jewellery 58:36 Lessons learned and mistakes made along the way 01:02:48 The future of her brand and industry insights Guest: Hannah Martin Website: hannahmartinlondon.com Instagram: @hannahmartinldn Find out more about GoldDust Collective, the membership for ambitious independent jewellery designers at www.katebaxterstudio.com You can also follow the host, Kate Baxter, at @golddust_by_kate_baxter and @thecutlondon Explore more conversations on the business of jewellery by liking and subscribing this podcast. Thank you for listening!

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